Explanation of Men's Dress Shoes, (Hierarchy of Formality and Why Good Dress Shoes Are Expensive,)
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Maximus Rex
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Shoes & Accessories http://www.wellbuiltstyle.com/a-basic-guide-to-dress-shoes-part-1/
A Basic Guide to Dress Shoes Part 1/2:
The dress shoe is an integral part of a gentleman’s wardrobe but unfortunately, many men do it absolutely wrong. In fact, shoes are so integral that many style gurus maintain that a man’s shoes are the most important item in his wardrobe. In my opinion, this is a bit of an exaggeration, but it does highlight the significance of shoes for a man’s overall appearance. A great looking pair of shoes not only completes a man’s outfit, but will elevate it; conversely, an ugly pair of shoes will significantly drag down the rest of his outfit and his overall appearance. This means it would be wise of you to not neglect this critical part of your wardrobe.
You might not know where to begin when it comes to improving your dress-shoe game, but that’s okay. This 2-part article will give you all the basic knowledge you need in order to immediately elevate yourself to a dress-shoe pro. Because the topic of dress shoes is so expansive, we will do more in depth articles on dress shoes in the future, but for now, this article will give beginners a much needed reference on how to vastly improve their overall look.
When selecting a dress shoe you, you need to understand the following:
1. Avoid the Clunky and Other Terrible Looks
One of the biggest blunders men make when it comes to dress shoes is the dreaded square-toe shoe. It is unpleasing aesthetically. We don’t find boxy cars, boxy body types or boxy clothes attractive; instead, we like sleek shapes and shoes are not an exception. Square toed-shoes add unnecessary bulk at the end of the outfit and throws proportions out of whack. Avoid at all costs.
Also avoid bicycle-stitched toes, shoes with rubber soles and slip-ons. All of these are unflattering, clunky, and make you look like an amateur. Don’t go for extremely pointy shoes either, especially those that raise up at the toe. These monstrosities are made for elves and you are not an elf.
Instead, go for a classic, slightly elongated, elegant shape that is the Oxford. It has been a staple in classy gentlemen’s footwear since the 1800's and for good reason: its sleek, yet simple look gives it and its wearer an air of class and sophistication.
2. The Different Levels of Formality
The three factors that determine a shoe’s level of formality are its lacing style, colour and amount of broguing.
Lacing Style
Shoes can generally be divided into two types of lacing: the closed laced shoe and the open laced shoes. Closed laced shoes are also known as “balmorals.” This type of shoe is closed-throated with a laced front. Its quarters -which are the two top pieces brought together by the laces- are sewn under the front part of the shoe. Closed laced shoes are considered to be more sleek and more formal of the two lacing styles.
Opened laced shoes are also known as “bluchers.” It has an open-throat front over the instep. The quarters are sewn on top of the front part of the shoe, creating ? which results in a “sportier” look. The one benefit this creates is it provides more room for the in-step which means that you have more give at the top of your foot.
Colour
The darker the shoe, the more formal it is. This naturally means that black shoes are the most formal shoes. With that said, brown is definitely a suitable colour to wear with suits and is acceptable to wear in all but the most conservative environments. In fact, brown is more versatile because you can dress it down with jeans/chinos and it tends to bring more life to an outfit more than black. It is important to note that there are many shades of brown and the darker the brown, the more formal the shoe.
Brogues are perforations and patterns that serve as decorations in dress shoes. The more broguing a shoe has, the less formal it is. Here’s the list of shoes from most formal to least formal: plain toe, plain toe with medallions, cap toe, cap toe with quarter brogue, cap toe with half brogues, wingtips, long wings.
Click on the following image to see dress shoes classified by their broguing: http://www.wellbuiltstyle.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/differentbrogueswebsite.jpg
3. The Differences in Quality
Dress shoes are one of the items we recommend spending a bit more on. This is because the large jump in quality and looks between the price point of ? dress shoes and the price point of quality dress shoes is significant and warrants the extra spending.
Two main differences between low quality dress shoes and high quality dress shoes are in the quality of the leather and the construction of the shoe:
Leather:
Low quality shoes use corrected-grain leather. It’s basically low quality leather that has many imperfections so the surface is sanded off and an artificial layer is applied to its surface to give it an appearance of uniform leather. This results in a shoe that is less breathable, cheap-looking and short lived once the artificial top layer breaks down. The creasing and crinkling you see on cheap dress shoes is a result of the artificial layer being worn off.
High quality shoes use full-grain leather (if not better). The leather is free from imperfections so no artificial layer is added. It’s a stronger, more durable and breathable leather that lasts a long time and develops “character” as it ages.
Construction
Low quality shoes are mass-manufactured in poorer countries and by unskilled workers who are governed by low quality control methods. The materials used are of lesser quality and the manufacturing process is poor. Materials are poorly stitched together and the shoe is put together by glue – e.g. the upper portion of the shoe is glued to the sole. All this results in a shoe that is less comfortable and has a shorter lifespan.
High quality shoes, on the other hand, are made with care by skilled workers and are governed by high quality control standards. No glue is used and the shoe is put together by stitching. A popular way to attach the upper to the sole which is done by many high quality shoes makers is called “The Goodyear Welt” – in a nutshell, the sole is stitched to a portion of the upper portion called the “welt.” All these factors result in a more comfortable shoe that will last you for many, many years.
In addition, the soles of high-quality dress shoes are made of vegetable tanned leather whereas the soles of low-quality are made of rubber. The advantages of a leather soles include better moisture wicking and they better conform to the foot resulting in greater comfort.
Essentially, the higher quality leathers and construction of a high quality shoe allow it to be worn for a decade (if not decades) if taken care of properly and resoled every few years. Poorly constructed shoes will last less than a year and will look terrible as they age.
A Basic Guide to Dress Shoes Part 1/2:
The dress shoe is an integral part of a gentleman’s wardrobe but unfortunately, many men do it absolutely wrong. In fact, shoes are so integral that many style gurus maintain that a man’s shoes are the most important item in his wardrobe. In my opinion, this is a bit of an exaggeration, but it does highlight the significance of shoes for a man’s overall appearance. A great looking pair of shoes not only completes a man’s outfit, but will elevate it; conversely, an ugly pair of shoes will significantly drag down the rest of his outfit and his overall appearance. This means it would be wise of you to not neglect this critical part of your wardrobe.
You might not know where to begin when it comes to improving your dress-shoe game, but that’s okay. This 2-part article will give you all the basic knowledge you need in order to immediately elevate yourself to a dress-shoe pro. Because the topic of dress shoes is so expansive, we will do more in depth articles on dress shoes in the future, but for now, this article will give beginners a much needed reference on how to vastly improve their overall look.
When selecting a dress shoe you, you need to understand the following:
1. Avoid the Clunky and Other Terrible Looks
One of the biggest blunders men make when it comes to dress shoes is the dreaded square-toe shoe. It is unpleasing aesthetically. We don’t find boxy cars, boxy body types or boxy clothes attractive; instead, we like sleek shapes and shoes are not an exception. Square toed-shoes add unnecessary bulk at the end of the outfit and throws proportions out of whack. Avoid at all costs.
Also avoid bicycle-stitched toes, shoes with rubber soles and slip-ons. All of these are unflattering, clunky, and make you look like an amateur. Don’t go for extremely pointy shoes either, especially those that raise up at the toe. These monstrosities are made for elves and you are not an elf.
Instead, go for a classic, slightly elongated, elegant shape that is the Oxford. It has been a staple in classy gentlemen’s footwear since the 1800's and for good reason: its sleek, yet simple look gives it and its wearer an air of class and sophistication.
2. The Different Levels of Formality
The three factors that determine a shoe’s level of formality are its lacing style, colour and amount of broguing.
Lacing Style
Shoes can generally be divided into two types of lacing: the closed laced shoe and the open laced shoes. Closed laced shoes are also known as “balmorals.” This type of shoe is closed-throated with a laced front. Its quarters -which are the two top pieces brought together by the laces- are sewn under the front part of the shoe. Closed laced shoes are considered to be more sleek and more formal of the two lacing styles.
Opened laced shoes are also known as “bluchers.” It has an open-throat front over the instep. The quarters are sewn on top of the front part of the shoe, creating ? which results in a “sportier” look. The one benefit this creates is it provides more room for the in-step which means that you have more give at the top of your foot.
Colour
The darker the shoe, the more formal it is. This naturally means that black shoes are the most formal shoes. With that said, brown is definitely a suitable colour to wear with suits and is acceptable to wear in all but the most conservative environments. In fact, brown is more versatile because you can dress it down with jeans/chinos and it tends to bring more life to an outfit more than black. It is important to note that there are many shades of brown and the darker the brown, the more formal the shoe.
Brogues are perforations and patterns that serve as decorations in dress shoes. The more broguing a shoe has, the less formal it is. Here’s the list of shoes from most formal to least formal: plain toe, plain toe with medallions, cap toe, cap toe with quarter brogue, cap toe with half brogues, wingtips, long wings.
Click on the following image to see dress shoes classified by their broguing: http://www.wellbuiltstyle.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/differentbrogueswebsite.jpg
3. The Differences in Quality
Dress shoes are one of the items we recommend spending a bit more on. This is because the large jump in quality and looks between the price point of ? dress shoes and the price point of quality dress shoes is significant and warrants the extra spending.
Two main differences between low quality dress shoes and high quality dress shoes are in the quality of the leather and the construction of the shoe:
Leather:
Low quality shoes use corrected-grain leather. It’s basically low quality leather that has many imperfections so the surface is sanded off and an artificial layer is applied to its surface to give it an appearance of uniform leather. This results in a shoe that is less breathable, cheap-looking and short lived once the artificial top layer breaks down. The creasing and crinkling you see on cheap dress shoes is a result of the artificial layer being worn off.
High quality shoes use full-grain leather (if not better). The leather is free from imperfections so no artificial layer is added. It’s a stronger, more durable and breathable leather that lasts a long time and develops “character” as it ages.
Construction
Low quality shoes are mass-manufactured in poorer countries and by unskilled workers who are governed by low quality control methods. The materials used are of lesser quality and the manufacturing process is poor. Materials are poorly stitched together and the shoe is put together by glue – e.g. the upper portion of the shoe is glued to the sole. All this results in a shoe that is less comfortable and has a shorter lifespan.
High quality shoes, on the other hand, are made with care by skilled workers and are governed by high quality control standards. No glue is used and the shoe is put together by stitching. A popular way to attach the upper to the sole which is done by many high quality shoes makers is called “The Goodyear Welt” – in a nutshell, the sole is stitched to a portion of the upper portion called the “welt.” All these factors result in a more comfortable shoe that will last you for many, many years.
In addition, the soles of high-quality dress shoes are made of vegetable tanned leather whereas the soles of low-quality are made of rubber. The advantages of a leather soles include better moisture wicking and they better conform to the foot resulting in greater comfort.
Essentially, the higher quality leathers and construction of a high quality shoe allow it to be worn for a decade (if not decades) if taken care of properly and resoled every few years. Poorly constructed shoes will last less than a year and will look terrible as they age.
Comments
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You’re Halfway There
As you can see, there is actually a lot to learn when it comes to a man’s dress shoe but now, you are already half-way to becoming an adept in this vast topic. In part 2 of this article, we’ll talk about proper fit and then put together everything you’ve learned so you can find a dress shoe that’s right for you.
A Basic Guide to Dress Shoes: Part 2/2
http://www.wellbuiltstyle.com/a-basic-guide-to-dress-shoes-part-2/
In A Basic Guide to Dress Shoes-Part 1, we discussed the differences in quality between a high-quality dress shoe and low-quality dress shoe, what not to wear, and the different levels of formality of a dress shoe. Now let us continue our discussion by talking about proper fit and then we’ll put everything together and discuss the type of dress shoe you should buy. We’ll also discuss some practical options if you currently don’t have the means to purchase a high quality shoe. By the end of this guide, I am confident that you will have all the basic information you will need to make informed decisions when buying a dress shoe, and this will result in you looking sharper than the majority of men around you.Fit
As with all shoes, they should not be too loose or too tight at any point. The front of the shoe should barely graze the toes and you should be able to just barely fit a finger between the heel and the back of the shoe. Your shoe shouldn’t be tight but it shouldn’t be slipping around your foot either. The standard shoe width is size D but with quality dress shoes, there’s a large continuum of widths: AAA/AA/A/B/C/D/E/EE/EEE/EEEE with AAA being the narrowest and EEEE being the widest. The sides of your shoes should not feel tight against your feet. If they are tight, you’ll need to move up in width size. The best way to find a pair of shoes that fits you is to get your feet measured in person at a shoe store using a Brannock device and to try on the shoes. It is important to actually try on the shoes because different shoe companies produce shoes of different fit. It is also necessary to try on shoes after you have been walking for a while because your feet tend to swell during the day.What Type of Shoe Should I Buy?
For the most conservative environments, it would be necessary to wear a black, cap toe shoe. These tend to be considered the most formal shoe and can only be worn with suits.
With that said, if you’re buying your first dress shoe, versatility should be your goal so choose a dark brown cap toe with a quarter-brogue or half-brogue. First of all, unless you’re in an ultra-conservative setting such as you’re in courtroom trying a case, brown shoes are a perfectly acceptable color for business environments. In addition to being acceptable in business/formal environments, brown shoes have versatility that black shoes lack. A brown shoe coupled with a quarter brogue or half brogue is formal enough to wear in business settings, but also casual enough to dress down with jeans and chinos. A benefit of the light broguing is that when worn in a business environment, it will liven up your outfit compared to the stuffy look of a super formal black cap toe.
As mentioned in part 1 of this guide, brown adds more life to your outfit and better complements other colours. The richness of brown not only matches better with more colours and textures, but it enhances them, thus producing an effect that is much more appealing to the eyes. For all these reasons, choosing a dark brown shoe with a quarter or half brogue will help you create that lean wardrobe and give you the best bang for your buck.What Are Good Shoes and How Much Do They Cost?
Shoes are one of the few items we encourage you to spend a bit more on. You should budget for around $250 for a quality pair of dress shoes. This does seem a bit high but because of the differences in quality between high quality shoes and low quality shoes, we really recommend that you spend a bit more here. The tier of high quality dress shoes begins at Allen Edmonds ($350+) and Alden ($500+) which are both American made. There are better shoes above this tier (such as Edward Green, John Lobb, etc) with better craftsmanship and quality but unless you’re balling hard, the jump in price-point to quality ratio isn’t worth it in my opinion.
As a disclaimer, let me just say that we are not affiliated with Allen Edmonds in anyway, nor do we get any kickbacks, financial compensation or anything of the sort from them. It’s just that their brand of shoes is known by shoe aficionados as a good balance between price and quality so I recommend them. I do not believe they are the best shoe available. With that said, even though they have a price point that is relatively high, the price is still reasonable and attainable for a lot of people who want a higher quality shoe. If you want to buy Aldens or if you want to buy the best of the best such as Edward Green, John Lobb, or Crockett and Jones which can cost $1000+, then that’s your prerogative.
When buying anything related to apparel wait for a sale. Allen Edmonds can be found on sale for around $220. You can also get factory directs which have very slight imperfections resulting in a cheaper shoe (~$200). Another option is buying used from Ebay where you should be able to find a pair for around $150. If you take good care of these shoes, they will last you for decades if not longer (with re-soling done every 4-6 years of course). If you have the means, I strongly urge that you don’t drop below this tier because the quality difference is vast but if you must due to financial reasons…
The next tier of shoe quality which is in between the high quality tier and the tier of absolute junk belongs to Florsheim and Johnston and Murphy. These two brands used to be made in America and were at the level of Allen Edmonds and Alden. Unfortunately, big companies took them over and began to outsource the construction of the shoes to 3rd world countries. This has lead to a drastic drop in the shoes’ quality. You can find these for $100-$175. The difference in quality between these shoes and Allen Edmonds is worth paying an extra $100. Cole Haan and Bostonians also belong to this category.
The complete ? tier of shoes are your Kenneth Coles, Dockers and the like. They use cheap corrected grain “leather” and basically glue the shoe together. The ? shoe designs coupled with the poor craftsmanship means you shouldn’t touch these with a 10 ft pole.
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I Really Can’t Afford a Pair of High Quality Shoes. What Can I Do?
It is understandable if you really don’t have the means at the moment to buy a high quality shoe but that shouldn’t prevent you from looking sharp. If you can’t fork up an extra $100, go with the middle tier quality shoes such Florsheims, Johnston and Murphy, Cole Haan and Bostonian because they make shoes with classic designs (i.e. Oxfords). As long as you stick with the shoe style recommendations made earlier in this article, you will still look sharp. Just understand that these cheaper shoes will have a much shorter life span than a high quality one. But if I were you, I’d save that extra $100, wait for a sale and get the Allen Edmonds. It really makes more sense to spend more here because the higher quality shoe will last many years longer than buying a cheap quality shoe that won’t last you at all.
There is one situation in which I would advise you to forego buying a high quality dress shoe and that’s if you need to wear the shoe for one special occasion, but you don’t believe you’ll wear it much more after that. Let’s say you MUST wear a pair of black cap toe oxfords for one particular event and you truly believe you won’t be wearing these shoes again. If that’s the case, then go ahead and buy something from the 2nd tier. It would make no sense for you to spend your hard earned money on an expensive pair of shoes if you won’t get much mileage out of them.A Final Word
We often hear the phrase: “Shoes make the man.” This is obviously a bit of hyperbole but it does highlight the significance a pair of shoes has on a man’s overall appearance. Luckily for you, you’re now armed with the necessary knowledge on how to buy dress shoes. Whatever the price of shoe you buy, adhere to the advice in this article and there’ll be no reason for you not to be able to put your best foot forward.
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I HATE brown shoes and i don't do toe caps but i love wingtips
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Sperry Topsider gold cup are great shoes also
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why they gotta go in on slip-ons like that though? guess I gotta re-think my ?
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good thread
this is free game for these youngins coming up
I hate to see a younger cat who can't wear an appropriate pair of shoes with business attire
can mean the difference between being taken seriously and getting some money or being dismissed
also I would recommend not wearing anything more than a mid-tier level shoe unless you are the ? investing his money instead of being the cat asking for money...........looks silly to have on $600+ shoes and you just a regular worker -
blakfyahking wrote: »good thread
this is free game for these youngins coming up
I hate to see a younger cat who can't wear an appropriate pair of shoes with business attire
can mean the difference between being taken seriously and getting some money or being dismissed
also I would recommend not wearing anything more than a mid-tier level shoe unless you are the ? investing his money instead of being the cat asking for money...........looks silly to have on $600+ shoes and you just a regular worker
Additionally, cats should stop wearin' those fruity-colored socks with their suits... Dudes be in conservative suits with OK shoes and some multi-colored striped socks, or bright pink socks or some ? like that and I'm just like... *face palm* -
A.J. Trillzynski wrote: »why they gotta go in on slip-ons like that though? guess I gotta re-think my ?
You mean loafers? ? -
1800skypager wrote: »blakfyahking wrote: »good thread
this is free game for these youngins coming up
I hate to see a younger cat who can't wear an appropriate pair of shoes with business attire
can mean the difference between being taken seriously and getting some money or being dismissed
also I would recommend not wearing anything more than a mid-tier level shoe unless you are the ? investing his money instead of being the cat asking for money...........looks silly to have on $600+ shoes and you just a regular worker
Additionally, cats should stop wearin' those fruity-colored socks with their suits... Dudes be in conservative suits with OK shoes and some multi-colored striped socks, or bright pink socks or some ? like that and I'm just like... *face palm*
Have to disagree with you on the socks maybe with suits but you still can rock some decent socks with a suit.
But if you going the casual way I say rock them multi color socks.
Know what I do hate is that cats wear shorts with argyle socks I'm like that's country as hell -
I was always told black socks with a suit
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I was always told black socks with a suit
Depends on the suit black suit black socks Brown with brown gray with light color socks. Factor in your tie cuff link and the hanky -
A.J. Trillzynski wrote: »why they gotta go in on slip-ons like that though? guess I gotta re-think my ?
It's all about time, place, and who you are. If you're working in some creative place, (Google, a fashion house, or a spot wear the dress code is business causal,) I would say that you're straight with loafers, polos, blazers, and dress shirts. Also, if you've made a name for yourself, you can break those rules. Nobody going to tell Carlos Slim or Donald Trump that they're breaking a fashion faux if they wear loafers with a pin stripe business suit.I was always told black socks with a suitbanginscrew901 wrote: »
Your socks are suppose to match the color of your pants. "Hanky?" Don't you mean a pocket square, playboy?https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzMebOUeHFU
The Rules On Matching Color & Pattern When It Comes To Socks - How To Match Men's Sockshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3aREh0QqGM
Wearing Bright Socks | Men's Colorful Sock Rules | When and How to Wear Brightly Colored Socks
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Hankerchief , pocket square hanky all the same
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banginscrew901 wrote: »Hankerchief , pocket square hanky all the same
That's your boy Rex and the pocket square that he's sporting cost him about $70. Rex will not be using a $70 pocket square to wipe snot and boggers from his nose. -
That's cool.
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dope thread cuh
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banginscrew901 wrote: »
more free game: your socks should always match your shirt unless the shirt is white
if your shirt is white, then they should match your inner vest, or inner lining of your jacket, or if not wearing a vest or jacket, the socks should match your belt
reason is the colors stand out more because you are alternating.............you don't want to look like you are wearing a scuba suit or uniform..........but you don't want your ? to clash all over the place either to where the color of your socks are distracting -
my favorite shoes were slip ons and square toe
most comfortable and easy to shine
formal or social
and lasted for a decade
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and those elfman shoes u are dissing come for a long culture and are not business wear
Mexicans wear those -
the first thing I look for is comfort
not aesthetics
and today you can do alot more with shoes than the past and its acceptable
? Ellen wears sneakers with her suits
and u only posted one style of shoes
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Damn at shoes lasting a decade
I haven't even had TVs past a decade -
Nothing wrong with square tips, and lot of the shoes you posted don't look to good.
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Dope thread. Lmao @ the elf shoes. 1 of my nggas, who does actually have good shoes, has a pair of those and actually rocks em just to ? wit us. Them shyts are attrocious.
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Great thread... a piece of advice.. Every time you buy a good pair of shoes, invest another $10-20 in a pair of Cedar Shoe trees... the trees 1) keep the shape to the shoe, 2) help minimize creases from setting in, 3) absorb sweat and odor
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